Straumsjøen - Evenes - Oslo - Basel
On the last day of our trip we eat a cinnamon bun for Cinnamon Bun Day, drive on a road that only Google thinks is closed and fly via Oslo to Basel.
152 posts from 10 countries, mostly written the same evening: Road trips, city breaks, hikes, northern lights and what we learned along the way.
New Norway · 4 October 2026 Straumsjøen - Evenes - Oslo - Basel On the last day of our trip we eat a cinnamon bun for Cinnamon Bun Day, drive on a road that only Google thinks is closed and fly via Oslo to Basel. On the last day of our trip we eat a cinnamon bun for Cinnamon Bun Day, drive on a road that only Google thinks is closed and fly via Oslo to Basel.
On Vetten near Bø we hear shots, meet two friendly locals, see as far as Lofoten and find a hut with a funny sign.
We watch the sun rise over Straumsjøen, stay indoors in the rain and, between two showers, walk the Coastal Trail to the lighthouse at Vikan.
We visit the sandy beaches near Hovden, climb Bufjellet above Sandvika and hike up Skårvågsfjellet in T-shirts. At night we see northern lights.
After a detour around all of Andøya we take a RIB boat out to the sperm whales off Andenes, climb Måtind in the afternoon and come down by moonlight.
Rain and storms all day: We stay in Nøss, rebuild the blog, walk to the beach during a short dry spell and cook fajitas in the evening.
Ahead of the storm we drive to Andenes, marvel at the spaceport and research stations on Andøya, stop at Bleik beach and see skeletons in the whale museum.
In the rain we drive to Andøya, fly the drone over reddish-brown moorland, charge at a Tesla Supercharger and stay in a photographer's Airbnb in Nøss.
A long travel day: Pizza and aubergines in Henningsvær, a burning lorry, veggie burgers at a petrol station and a Western-themed hotel.
Sleeping in after a night of northern lights, an antique shop and the ochre rorbuer of Sakrisøy in the rain, then a fire, leftovers and packing.
In sunshine up 1976 steps to Reinebringen, cinnamon buns in Sakrisøy, evening light on Rambergstranda and at night northern lights right by our Airbnb.
Up Offersøykammen in drizzle, autumn colours on the road to Nusfjord, and in the evening red light over the beaches of Flakstad and Ramberg.
Through mud and wind to a view of Kvalvika Beach, red berries amid orange autumn colours, then a stormy afternoon in the cabin and two gratins for dinner.
A rainy day in the Lofoten with lots of rainbows: Cinnamon buns and carrot cake in Nusfjord, a rainbow over the beach at Fredvang and Rummikub in the evening.
By electric Ford Explorer and ferry to Moskenes, then to the end of the world in Å and in the evening to our most beautiful Airbnb yet, near Ramberg.
The alarm goes off at 4 am and we fly to Bodø via Frankfurt. In the afternoon we walk around the harbour in the sun, and in the evening we have pizza at LystPå.
A day hike from Sörenberg: Cows on the path, a swim in the cold Eisee and, at the top, the improbably blue Lake Brienz.
Two days on the Great Aletsch Glacier: Roped up across firn and bare ice, 550 steps up to the Konkordia Hut and on to Märjelensee the next morning.
From Bangkok to Zurich: A calm, sleepless night flight, the Alps in the morning light above the clouds and the train back to Basel.
From Lombok via Jakarta to Bangkok: A false Flightradar alarm, fried bananas, Thai Airways and spicy curry sauces on the journey home.
By scooter to Bukit Merese near Kuta Lombok: Monkeys, empty beaches, bruschetta at the villa and a private Nasi Goreng cooking class.
From the crowded surf beach of Selong Belanak to a secluded beach in South Lombok: Dirt track, water buffaloes, a water monitor, a drone flight and Nasi Goreng.
Hotel change to South Lombok: Tobacco plantations, mango and jackfruit trees, a weaving village with Annina at the loom and a sunset at the new hotel.
Snorkelling at Gili Meno and Gili Air with three big sea turtles, then fresh coconuts, a sunset with Mount Agung on the horizon and good food.
Snorkelling at Nipah Beach, we see six turtles, then starfish on the hotel reef, and in the evening Nicolas photographs a fisherman in the last light.
We drive from Ubud to Padang Bai, take the fast ferry via Gili Trawangan to Lombok and in Medana check into the most beautiful hotel with an infinity pool.
A rest day at the hotel near Ubud: We enjoy the garden, pool, gym and good food, and we read and edit photos. It is partly cloudy and 29 degrees.
After breakfast at the hotel we visit the Monkey Forest in Ubud, Annina goes shopping in the pouring rain, and in the evening we eat at the hotel.
In a yellow car we drive from Amed to Ubud, stop at a coffee plantation with a luwak and stay at a dreamlike hotel in Tegallalang.
Snorkelling with locals in Amed, we see sea turtles, corals and an underwater temple, and afterwards we have a beer at their home.
After sunrise at Mount Agung we visit the Tirta Gangga water palace and the Maha Ganga Valley, and in the evening we have bruschetta.
We learn to make silver rings, eat fried banana at the rice terraces and take our scooter up a wild road for sunset.
Arriving in Bali: From I Gusti Ngurah Rai airport we drive to Amed by car, past rice fields, and our first hotel has a pool waiting for us.
The suitcases are packed: We fly from Zurich to Doha, our stopover on the way to Bali, and land there at 38 degrees.
At 6 am we shovel the car free, then the ferry carries us into the sunrise. Via Bodø, Oslo and Zurich we head back to Basel.
We photograph the sunrise for 2.5 hours, our kayak plan fails, and Å at the 'end of the world' is sunny before a snow flurry brings the day to a close.
After the frozen Rambergstranda we move into the mini-villa overlooking Sakrisøy's yellow rorbuer and spend the evening by the fireplace.
Valentine's Day and our anniversary in one: The 'Matterhorn of the North' is snowed in, but we enjoy the viewpoint over Reine and the evening in Sakrisøy.
In Nusfjord the storm nearly carries off the drone. On the drive back, two young moose stand right beside the road, closer than ever before.
The wind drives clouds of snow across the roads like snakes. We head to Fredvang and Ramberg and watch the sunset at the Eliassen Rorbuer.
Finally back in the Lofoten: Hamnøy in the winter light, the yellow houses of Sakrisøy, the drive out to Å and northern lights over the mountains at night.
Through deep fresh snow to the rental car, then on the rocking car ferry to the promised land: At 19:45 we reach the deeply snow-covered Lofoten.
-33 °C while scraping ice, then a cancelled flight: Via Helsinki and Oslo we work our way to Bodø, taking a whole day for an hour's worth of flying.
30 kilometres in convoy through snowy forests and across frozen lakes, at -30 °C with an iced-up visor, and finally to the fire in a snow tipi.
A second hike up Riisitunturi rewards us with a surreal pink spectacle: Fog, setting sun and frozen eyelashes at -25 °C.
Feeding reindeer at -25 °C: The animals eat their lichen dessert from our hands. In the afternoon, Riisitunturi with trees that vanish completely under snow.
Through glorious powder snow to the old Myllykoski mill and its suspension bridge, accompanied by the low sun and, at night, by faint northern lights.
A snowshoe trail through snowy forests, then a move from the glass igloo to a cabin with a huge window front, fireplace and sauna. No northern lights.
Snowshoes, a reindeer and husky farm and then a tripod hunt through Ruka and Kuusamo. The very last shop really does have exactly one.
The very first Edelweiss flight to Kuusamo, a drum welcome on landing and our first night in a glass igloo at Magical Ponds.
The Scotland trip ends royally: Doune Castle from Game of Thrones and Monty Python, imposing Stirling Castle, and our last 14.43 pounds spent at the airport.
James Bond vibes in the Skyfall valley: We recreate the famous film photo and end up on a small farm in Auchtubh in the evening, card game included.
The Jacobite Steam Train steams across the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Harry Potter goosebumps included, plus Loch Shiel aka The Black Lake.
The picture-book castle of Eilean Donan, a clipped wing mirror on the way, and the windy hike to the Old Man of Storr on the Isle of Skye.
A stormy day in the Highlands: Wild waves on the paradise beach of Oldshoremore, narrow single-track roads with a sheep in the mirror, and Stoer Lighthouse.
A packed day in Scotland's far north: Dunrobin Castle, the Whaligoe Steps, John o' Groats and Duncansby, until we reach Kinlochbervie late in the evening.
Dunnottar Castle on its cliffs, Highland cows by the roadside, and a hunt for a sharp photo of Nessie that ends in the tourist trap of Urquhart Castle.
Edinburgh with pubs, stone houses and bagpipers, then the first nervous kilometres driving on the left and the 3000-year-old Standing Stones of Lundin.
The Scotland trip begins with an evening flight, the castle lit above the city, local beer, two single malts and a pub where everyone ends up dancing.
Stockholm at speed: Drottninggatan, Gamla Stan, the changing of the guard by chance, and an evening on Djurgården with dumplings and a boat ride home.
The first-class train to Stockholm, and an evening that becomes legendary when the Indian food we had given up on arrives just as the pizza does.
A day for friendship: Vegan breakfast with Salome and Lucas, Lake Nydalasjön, the Umeå campus, frisbee in the park and cocktails at GP's.
Seven and a half hours by train through Lapland with photo editing and Monopoly, a connection caught despite a delay and a late welcome in Umeå.
Our last day on Senja is the most spectacular: A scramble up Hesten's steep rock face for a view of the iconic Segla, then 3.5 hours of misty lakes to Narvik.
The easiest hike we've done in Norway: 15 minutes up Knuten for a view over Mefjordvær, the sea and misty mountains, then red curry and photo editing.
Fifteen minutes turn into a two-hour loop around Senja: Shopping in Finnsnes, perfect reflections at Tungeneset and a lighthouse we never reach.
A slow, grey day: The lighthouse on the tiny island of Husøy, a spectacular drive through single-lane tunnels to Fjordgård, then curry and Monopoly.
The silent electric boat into the narrow Trollfjord, with sea eagles and an underwater drone, then 5.5 hours to Senja and northern lights over our beach.
Farewell to Sakrisøy, then our favourite Lofoten hike up Offersøykammen with its 360-degree panorama, and at night a northern lights explosion at Rystad.
Up Ryten for a breathtaking view of Kvalvika Beach, then northern lights at night over Skagsanden Beach and by our cabin until after 2 am.
By boat to Vindstad and over the pass to remote Bunes Beach: A swim in the ice-cold sea, a beach full of shells and a drone chase near Fredvang.
Drone stops on the way to the fishing village of Nusfjord, beach-hopping at Skagsanden and Ramberg, and at midnight northern lights over Sakrisøy.
Up the Sherpa steps to Reinebringen with an incredible view of fjords and mountains, and in the evening Annina wins at Monopoly for the third time in a row.
The car ferry from Bodø to Moskenes, the drive to the end of the E10 at Å, and a mini-villa on Olenilsøy overlooking Sakrisøy and Hamnøy.
Almost ten hours by train from Trondheim to Bodø in Premium Class, past forests, fjords and waterfalls, with a few moose and a punctual arrival.
The Atlantic Ocean Road in moody fog, then Trondheim: Colourful warehouses on the Nidelva, the 11th-century Nidaros Cathedral and a very good Thai dinner.
Coastal trails at Bud and Farstad in drizzle, then the clouds break over the Atlantic Ocean Road and we race back for one of the finest sunsets we've seen.
A hike through Innerdalen, Norway's supposedly finest high valley, with sheep begging for our sandwiches, then a rainbow over the lake on Litlefjellet.
By replacement bus and train to Trondheim with two moose beside the tracks, then on by rental car to a cabin on the fjord in Ålvund, sunset included.
A whole day of travel by train and bus from Copenhagen via Gothenburg and Oslo to Hamar, where swarming mosquitoes end our planned dinner by the Viking ship.
One day for Copenhagen: Pastries at Nyhavn, the Little Mermaid, the changing of the guard, the Marble Church and the freetown of Christiania.
Planten un Blomen, the Chilehaus and the Speicherstadt, then chaos: A bicycle race closes the centre, the taxi never comes, and we only just catch our train.
Interrail north, first stop Hamburg: A harbour street food festival, the Elbphilharmonie, the Speicherstadt, an evening boat tour and a laser and drone show.
Back to the north of the Lofoten via Henningsvær and Svolvær to Kasfjord near Harstad, with rainbows, two moose and the last evening before the flight home.
Rain, hail and rainbows, photo stops in Sakrisøy, Reine and Hamnøy, a visit to the Lofoten waterfall and faint northern lights over the sea in the evening.
A steep hike up Offersøykammen with views of fjords, mountains and sea, a summit picnic, forgotten drone batteries and rain on our return.
Second attempt at Kvalvika Beach in sunshine: A climb in T-shirts, a picnic on the most beautiful beach in the Lofoten and evening light at the Twin-Bridges.
Climbing Mannen above Hauklandstranda, a seal in front of our cabin and, at night, the northern lights for the second time in the Lofoten.
Checking out, sea eagles in Å, a rainbow before the next downpour and moving into our new accommodation near Ramberg, the Lofoten Cabins Kåkern.
Rain on Nubben, turning back in the mud, then the hike to Kvalvika Beach with a picnic in the wind and sea eagles in Lofotodden National Park.
Nusfjord in better weather: Harbour and rorbuer, cinnamon treats with a view, a short hike to two lakes, then the yellow house in Sakrisøy.
Rain, wind and fog in the Lofoten: Photo stops in Fredvang, Reine and Sakrisøy, plus rice with red wine sauce and hungry seagulls outside the window.
A rainy day in the Lofoten: The red cabin at Rambergstranda, photo stops on the drive south, a Kanelsnurrer in Sakrisøy and an afternoon in our little cabin.
Climbing the 448-metre Reinebringen via 1566 steps, then the drive to Å at the end of the E10 and back to our little fishing cabin in Hamnøy.
From Rystad to Hamnøy: Rainbows over sandy beaches, sea eagles, a fishing cabin in the old fishing village and northern lights over the harbour at night.
A rainy day in the Lofoten: Rørvikstranda beach, the football pitch of Henningsvær from the air and the church of Gimsøy, plus tomato spaghetti.
An early flight from Oslo to Harstad/Narvik, a Toyota RAV4 as our rental car and three hours of coastal roads to our first accommodation in Rystad.
By ferry to the Folk Museum with the stave church, the Viking Ship Museum, lunch at the opera house and packing for the early flight to the Lofoten.
The Fram Museum, Maritim Museum and Kon-Tiki Museum on Bygdøy, then the City Hall, Akershus Fortress and the Royal Palace in Oslo.
By train to Zurich, a direct flight to Oslo, the City Box Hotel and on Sunday afternoon to the waterfront promenade by the opera house.
Last day in Vienna with breakfast in the Burggarten, a concert at the Karlskirche, Sachertorte at Café Sacher and the journey back to Basel.
Breakfast in the Burggarten, the Naschmarkt, Schönbrunn Palace with the Gloriette and Rosarium, and the 343 steps up the south tower of the Stephansdom.
Sisi Museum, Silver Collection and state rooms, a film shoot in Vienna's old town, Belvedere Palace and vegan schnitzel at Figlmüller in the evening.
Apple strudel for breakfast, on foot through central Vienna to the Palace of Justice, Hundertwasser House and St. Stephen's, dumplings and spaetzle for dinner.
Last morning in Budapest with sunrise at Fisherman's Bastion, then the direct train to Vienna for 9 euros and a thunderstorm on arrival.
The Buda Castle area, a free walking tour on Hungarian history and a sunset with an approaching thunderstorm at Fisherman's Bastion in the evening.
Sunrise long exposures opposite the Parliament, Margaret Island, iced coffee in the hotel garden and a boat trip on the Danube in the evening.
Shoes on the Danube bank, the old tram to the Adidas outlet, a boat across to the Buda side and an evening at Fisherman's Bastion in Budapest.
Budapest on foot: The Parliament building on the Danube, breakfast at Caffee Brios, the ruin bar Szimpla Kert and sunset on the Ferris wheel.
Flight from Basel to Budapest, check-in at a boutique hotel on the Pest side, shopping in 35-degree heat and an evening at St. Stephen's Basilica.
Throat-swab Covid test, takeaway in the city park, Gamla Stan and City Hall: Our last day in Stockholm ends with Uber Eats and bar games.
Cactus park in Norrköping, a hectic drive into the Stockholm area and our last stay at the Scandic Hotel in Kista, with a test run at packing in the evening.
From the sun terrace near Norrköping to the abandoned mines of Sätragruvan, where sulphur ore was mined in the First World War, and an evening by the lake.
From the Airbnb with a sauna to Tiveden National Park: A hike along the reddish-coloured lakes, then on to a cottage by a lake near Norrköping.
Sightseeing around Götene: The Silverfallet waterfalls, the forest ruins of the Oljekoken Gössäter shale oil works and the woods of Munkängarna Kinnekulle.
A rainy day in the loft in Götene: Planning the journey home, shopping in Lidköping, a sauna and an aperitif with non-alcoholic sparkling wine and ginger beer.
From Hindås to Götene: A visit to the baroque Läckö Slott on Lake Vänern, a picnic on a jetty and an evening in a loft with its own sauna.
Wind is the word of the day: Tjolöholms Slott south of Gothenburg with its garden by the sea, then the Näsbokrok nature reserve with strong wind and waves.
A rest day in Hindås: A walk through the forest to the sandy beach by the lake, calls with family and friends and an aperitif on the balcony with a lake view.
The fishing villages of Hälleviksstrand and Mollösund, vegetable pizza at Fröken Trulls with antiques and a nursery, then the loft in Hindås near Gothenburg.
The colourful fishing huts of Smögenbryggan, Bronze Age rock carvings in Brastad, the Stångehuvud nature reserve and a ferry ride to Orust.
An abandoned car cemetery in the forest near the Norwegian border, then on to Åmål on Lake Vänern with a view of a lighthouse.
From Orsa a good two and a half hours south: Shopping at an ICA Maxi, a storm with hail and a cottage on a farm with cows and a calf.
We visit the Orsa Rovdjurspark with bears, lynx, wolverine and birds of prey, and in the evening watch geese with their young from the bird-watching jetty.
From Rätan to Orsa: Hikes through the bog landscape of Hamra National Park, the Helvetesfallet with its suspension bridge and an Airbnb with a lake view.
We leave Huså, drive to Rätan and move into a house with a second little cottage. In the evening we eat curry rice by the lake, read and edit photos.
Annina's 25th birthday in Huså: Breakfast with balloons, prosecco on the balcony, a backpack as a present and chocolate cake shortly before midnight.
Nicolas' drone gets stuck in a tree outside our cabin but eventually comes down unharmed. Then we visit the Handölsforsen and reach our accommodation in Huså.
On the drive from Backe to Handöl we visit Ristafallet, Tännforsen and Handölsforsen, see a double rainbow and move into a remote cabin.
We visit viewpoints near Brattfors, see a rock painting of a moose, read by a lake and fly the drone over the forest.
We leave the house by the lake, move into an Airbnb in Backe and cut the hike to Finnfors short because we hear a deep growl in the forest.
From our lakeside stay in Hoting we drive to the Tvärfallet waterfall in a moss-covered forest, and we spend the afternoon by the jetty.
From Arvidsjaur to Hoting: A 4.5-hour drive with a lunch break by old Sami cottages in Vilhelmina, and modern accommodation right on the lake.
A rest day in Arvidsjaur: Planning the onward journey, deckchairs on the meadow, potato gratin, an open fire and a sunset around midnight.
From Arvidsjaur to Reivo nature reserve: The Sami town of Lappstaden, a road full of mud and snow, a young moose and reindeer on the way back.
From Jokkmokk to Arvidsjaur: Grocery shopping, reindeer on the road, a gravel track in 4WD, a spring-fed lake in a bog and a cottage above a lake.
On the drive from Jokkmokk to Kvikkjokk we stop at frozen lakes, spot a moose, reindeer and ptarmigan, and visit the wooden church.
From Kiruna to Jokkmokk: Reindeer and ptarmigan on the way, icy lakes, Muddus National Park blocked by snow and the cabin at Skabram Camping.
A quiet day in Kiruna: The wooden church, then a cabin on a campsite by the frozen lake, with a sauna on the ice.
From Kiruna to Abisko: A hike in Abisko National Park with a waterfall and the Kungsleden, frozen lakes, reindeer by the roadside and drone flights.
More than 300 km from Råneå to Kiruna: Breakfast in the villa's dining room, herds of reindeer by the roadside, frozen lakes and a night at Hotel Kebne.
The crane and icebreakers in Luleå's harbour, the open-air museum in Luleå Gammelstad and a night at Villa Melderstein Herrgård in Råneå.
From Ånäset to Luleå: Breakfast in the forest cabin, a railway museum with retired trains in the woods and a walk along the beach promenade.
From Lillarmsjö via Umeå to Ånäset: Rain, two moose in a meadow just before Lufta campsite and a cosy evening in the cabin.
From Själevad to Lillarmsjö: A sauna in the morning, a forest lake, a cottage with a boat and a sauna on the big lake, and a sunset over mirror-smooth water.
From Jättendal to Själevad: Rain on the drive, an Airbnb with a sauna in the flat, rice with Thai curry sauce and editing photos late into the night.
From Borlänge to Jättendal: A forest lake as a photo stop, moose warning signs on the way, shopping at ICA Maxi and an Airbnb called Krusa overlooking a lake.
Last breakfast in Stockholm, a rental car at the airport and the first drive in the Peugeot 3008 plug-in hybrid to a tiny house for the night.
Sun cream instead of a SIM card, a quiet morning in Rosendals Trädgård Park, scooters at the harbour, lunch at Stadshuset and the city library.
17,000 steps in the sunshine: Gamla Stan, Södermalm, Monteliusvägen, Skinnarviksberget, lunch at Stadshuset and the island of Skeppsholmen.
A lie-in, takeaway at the harbour after a scooter ride with a detour, photo spots around the city and a vegan bowl via Uber Eats in the evening.
Flight from Zurich to Stockholm in the middle of the pandemic: Antigen test in Basel, showing the certificate twice, the Arlanda Express and a walk in the rain.
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