The old Myllykoski mill stands on the bank of the Kitkajoki in Oulanka National Park north of Kuusamo. According to Metsähallitus, which manages Finland’s national parks, the view of it may be the most photographed landscape in the country. We were there on 5 February 2024, on fresh powder snow. The path to the mill is the start of the Pieni Karhunkierros, the Small Bear’s Trail. According to Metsähallitus the whole loop is 11.8 km long, takes 3 to 5 hours and counts as demanding because of its length and the differences in elevation. On top of that there are several sets of wooden stairs, long and steep in places. The first 1.5 km to Myllykoski are walked out and back on the same path, the actual loop only starts there. We only went as far as the mill and a short way beyond. The map and track therefore show the way there and back from Juuma car park to the mill.
From the car park to the mill
The drive to the national park led over deeply snowed-in roads. Again and again we wondered whether the spikes on our tyres were really enough. They held, and we arrived safely. There we first had to find a parking spot. We found a good one near a café and took the chance to ask the friendly employee where best to walk. She gave us tips on the route and said it should be doable without snowshoes. If needed, we could also have rented snowshoes from her.
Which car park that was, we did not record. The official start of the Pieni Karhunkierros is the large Juuma car park on Juumantie, which is also where the map and track begin. According to In the Woods, Dear it is free. The trial of paid parking that Metsähallitus has been running in five areas since 1 September 2026 does not include Juuma. According to All About Lapland you can also start at Basecamp Oulanka, which is closer to the mill.
According to Metsähallitus the path starts under a wooden gate at the edge of the car park and is marked in green. In places it runs on the orange-marked Karhunkierros, so at junctions you have to watch the colour. After 350 m comes the first suspension bridge, Niskakoski, with steep stairs down and back up. After that an easy path leads past the hotel and restaurant Basecamp Oulanka to Myllykoski. Metsähallitus gives 1.5 km from the start to Myllykoski. In the track it is 1.65 km from the car park, 3.3 km there and back with 56 metres of ascent. According to All About Lapland it takes about 20 minutes on foot from Juuma car park to the mill. We did not record our own walking time.
We walked in our normal boots, and as far as the mill that was perfectly manageable on the fresh powder snow. There was powder snow everywhere, and the river wound through the landscape it has carved itself.
At the mill and back
On the river bank stands the old Myllykoski mill. According to Wikipedia, residents of the villages of Juuma and Säkkilä built it in 1926. It mostly ground barley, sometimes rye, for the last time in 1947/48. The rapids take their name from the mill. According to Metsähallitus there is now a day hut, a fireplace and a dry toilet. A suspension bridge leads across the Kitkajoki. When we were there the river was largely frozen over and covered in snow, the rapids lay between banks of snow.
We actually wanted to go on to a frozen waterfall. Soon we realised that the path leads over a great many iced-over steps that are barely passable without snowshoes and crampons. We had neither with us and turned back. How far beyond the mill we got, we did not record, so the track ends at the mill. Our post does not name the waterfall. According to Metsähallitus the Jyrävä lies on this path 1.6 km after Myllykoski, where the Kitkajoki drops 9 m over a few metres. There are steep stairs right after Myllykoski and again before the Jyrävä.
In winter, according to Metsähallitus, the path usually stays open because snowshoers use it. Ice grips for shoes are recommended, and depending on the snow you may need snowshoes. According to In the Woods, Dear the path is not maintained in winter and is often, but not always, packed down. The stairs at Myllykoski were in good condition for them, the ones towards Jyrävä were not. All About Lapland also writes that the many stairs can become pretty slippery in winter.
On the way back to the car park we were accompanied by the setting sun, and its light fell on the falling snow. We stopped and took a few photos before driving back to our accommodation.
